Stuck Prop and Clicks

[Zeus0331]

Hi,
I’m stuck with my Cessna 182M. When I try to start it, the prop gives a little twitch and then just hangs there, all I get is a solenoid click. I’ve swapped out the battery, cleaned all the contacts, and even bench-tested the starter, still nothing. I’m scratching my head here!

Anyone dealt with this before or have any bright ideas on what might be going on? Needed help pls.

 

[Brute Harry]

To fix the starting problem, check the voltage at the starter. If it's low, check the main power switch and the battery cables. If the voltage is good at the switch but low at the starter, the starter switch might be bad. Clean all the connections to make sure they're good.

 

[Toga Cruiser]

If Harry’s suggestions don’t work pull prop thru by hand and verify engine not stuck.

 

[aerosputnik]

The Cessna 182M has a Lycoming engine. Just because the starter motor turns on the bench, does not mean it will turn under the load of the engine. Check the brushes in the starter and with a multi meter, check all the brush contactors on the starter armature. The starter may have a faulty armature and as it turns will stall where the current passed by the brushes fails to achieve a circuit because that portion of the commutator is not making a full circuit. This often happens when people fail to adhere to the starter limits that the starter manufacturers lay down. For example turning the starter for more than ten seconds at a time and after three start attempts, to leave the starter for 30 minutes to cool down. The starter will overheat and burn out some of the armature windings.
But in your case, your problem could well be a poor earth from engine to battery or even a loose battery terminal.

 

[DNeuf]

This sounds like a connection is opening under load. I've seen it many times exactly as described.
A "voltage drop test" would be a good way to determine the exact location of a high resistance in a circuit, connection, or part.
It's an easy test, but it's a bit difficult to explain. I am pretty sure YouTube would have a video explaining how to do this test.

 

[aerosputnik]

I forgot to say that starter solenoids are not too good sometimes and although they click and make contact ( and sometimes "Chatter" ), the internal contacts can burn up as well and make a poor contact. To check if the solenoid is good, you can short it out in situ. Make sure that the magneto switches are OFF and the key is out! Use a heavy jumper cable, put the master switch ON and short the two big terminals at the starter solenoid (sometime called a Relay or Contactor). If the propeller turns, then change the starter solenoid. Be careful not to short the jumper cable with the aircraft or engine. Be firm and positive with the jumper cable, it will spark when the two terminals are initially connected. You only need to turn the Prop over once, just to see if the starter will engage and turn the engine, then detach the jumper cable.

 

[DNeuf]

I forgot to say that starter solenoids are not too good sometimes and although they click and make contact ( and sometimes "Chatter" ), the internal contacts can burn up as well and make a poor contact. To check if the solenoid is good, you can short it out in situ. Make sure that the magneto switches are OFF and the key is out! Use a heavy jumper cable, put the master switch ON and short the two big terminals at the starter solenoid (sometime called a Relay or Contactor). If the propeller turns, then change the starter solenoid. Be careful not to short the jumper cable with the aircraft or engine. Be firm and positive with the jumper cable, it will spark when the two terminals are initially connected. You only need to turn the Prop over once, just to see if the starter will engage and turn the engine, then detach the jumper cable.

This is where a voltage drop test is the way to go. No high currents jumping across any terminals, damaging threads on the terminal.... The volt meter will show if the solenoid is open with a high voltage reading. No contact should show more than a few tenths of a volt across the main terminals on the solenoid to the starter.
I would really encourage you to look at how the voltage drop test is done. The easiest way to pinpoint the failure along the circuit.

 

[Toga Cruiser]

My 76 182 has been sitting too much lately. When I started it today after a min or two the alternator dropped off line . When I recycle the master it comes back on and stays for a few minutes and drops off again. Always reboots when master is recycled.
It has a new alternator in hours about 10 years old in years and the original Ford looking regulator. Any ideas from the obvious smart guys I’ve been reading here.

 

[david hillberg]

how old is the battery?

 

[Toga Cruiser]

how old is the battery?

It’s two years old and it test great. Once the alternator field is excited it should stay on line even without the battery right? I’m thinking voltage regulator but I slept thru electrical class.